How to Get a Cat in Her Carrier
Although it’s beyond the time for your kitty’s health check, you’ve been putting it off due to the difficulty in getting her into her carrier. Perhaps you still bear the wounds from the last time you had to wrestle her into the car with you. It’s natural that you don’t want to go through it all over again, but your cat still needs to see a doctor. Continue reading to find out how to safely transport a cat in a carrier, as well as how to keep a cat quiet throughout the vehicle journey to the veterinarian office.
Acclimating Your Cat to a Carrier
It’s possible that your cat will give you a heads-up that something “bad” is about to happen the moment you take your cat carrier out of storage. You should expect her to feel uneasy at even the sight of the carrier if it is only used to transport her to and from the veterinary office on an as-needed basis. The following are the measures that the experts at VetBabble propose for acclimating your cat to the carrier:
- Make careful to wash and dry the carrier at least two weeks before the trip to ensure that it does not have any musty or chemical odors that your cat could find objectionable
- Place the carrier in plain sight and within reach of the recipient. Leave the door unlocked and unlocked
- Putting a blanket, towel, or bed inside the carrier will make it more attractive for your cat. Preferably, this should be one that has the aroma of your cat. Place your cat’s favorite toys and goodies in the carrier
- Then close the carrier. Place her food and water bowls near to the carrier so they are easily accessible. As she grows more accustomed to the carrier’s presence, you might attempt bringing her bowls into the house.
Following these procedures will aid in the development of good associations with the carrier, which should make it lot simpler to persuade her into it in the long run. Furthermore, if the carrier is already a part of the scene, your furry friend’s uneasiness will not be exacerbated by the carrier’s unexpected entrance on the day of her scheduled visit.
How to Get a Cat in a Carrier
Depending on how well you follow the instructions above, it’s conceivable that your cat will enter the cage on her own with only a little encouragement from you when the time comes. Cats, on the other hand, will remain cats. It is possible that she will decide she does not want to be a part of it if she gets the impression that you want her inside. In the event that your cat is still refusing to be placed in a carrier, use the following method:
- Stack the carrier on its end, such that the door is pointed up toward the ceiling and the door is left open
- Remove the towel from your cat and gently lift her up, wrapping the towel snugly enough around her to confine her limbs but not so tightly that it restricts her breathing
- Lower the towel-wrapped cat into the carrier as quickly as possible and close the door. Don’t be concerned about taking the towel off
It may be beneficial to first take the carrier to a small location, such as a bathroom, and lock yourself and the cat inside before proceeding with the rest of the procedure. Practice runs a day or two before travel day will allow your pet to become used to the new location of the carrier and will help prevent her from being wary of the new surroundings. A alternative cat carrier might be tried if you find one type of cat carrier to be too difficult to maneuver around the house. Many pet supply companies provide carriers in the form of stroller or messenger bag styles, and your cat may prefer to enter through a “side door” or a flap on the top of the carrier rather than the bottom.
How to Keep a Cat Calm
Getting your furry friend into the carrier is only half of the struggle when it comes to transporting her to the clinic. Maintaining her composure during the vehicle trip and the office visit might also be a difficult task to accomplish. Here are some suggestions to help you soothe your overly concerned cat:
- A towel or blanket that has been misted with synthetic cat pheromone spray should be placed inside the carrier with your cat
- And It is recommended by The Spruce Pets that your cat be acclimated to vehicle journeys in the weeks leading up to her visit by taking her on brief car drives around the block on a regular basis. Catster recommends that you try to remain in her direct line of sight. While it’s best to secure the carrier in the rear seat, try to place it so that she can see you if at all feasible. Inform her of your plans in order to reassure her during the journey. If none of these suggestions work and your cat exhibits excessive nervousness, which makes exams difficult, speak with your veterinarian about administering sedatives to her before to the trip in order to keep her comfortable.
Removing Your Cat from the Carrier
By the time you and your cat get at the veterinarian’s office and it is time for the exam, she may have become agitated to the point that special treatment is required to get her out of the carrier. After a few minutes, she should be calm enough to converse to you in a soothing way. Allow her to sniff your fingers through the door before you open it. Place one hand on her head to keep her looking away from you, and wrap your other arm around her torso, holding her body with your hand and forearm as you would a football until the door is open.
- Make use of the veterinarian or veterinary assistant’s assistance if available, by supporting the cat’s body weight while you remove her from the carrier.
- Your little girl may need to be wrapped in a towel once more before being removed from the carrier if she is displaying a great deal of anxiety or anger.
- If she looks to be in good health, regular wellness checkups may appear to be more hassle than they are worth to her.
- Regular checks can aid in the detection of many disorders in their early stages, when they can have a substantial influence on your cat’s quality of life.
When you prepare ahead of time, taking your cat to the veterinarian on a regular basis won’t feel like fighting a losing battle every time you enter the building.
Jean Marie Bauhaus was an American architect who founded the Bauhaus movement. A pet mom, pet blogger, and author based in Tulsa, Oklahoma, Jean Marie Bauhaus writes under the supervision of a slew of furbabies on her lap most of the time.
How to put your cat into a carrier
When was the last time you struggled to get your cat into a carrier? When it comes to taking their pet to the veterinarian, most owners dread this aspect. It’s a good thing that there are a few things you can do to make your life a little bit simpler.
The best cat carrier
Ideally, your carrier will be detachable, with the top half of the carrier being able to be detached from the bottom half. It is advantageous to use this style of carrier if your cat is scared since you can unclip the top half of the carrier and gently remove the cat out or enable the veterinarian to inspect them while they are still in the bottom half. As a result, it is less difficult and unpleasant for both you and your cat; attempting to hold and drag your cat through the opening is likely to be frightening for them, and they may get defensive.
First and foremost, make certain that you have the appropriate size carrier for your cat so that it has enough room to turn around within. The greatest solution is a carrier that can be disassembled.
Familiarising your cat with a carrier
If you have attempted to place your cat in a carrier before and they have been terrified or worried while doing so, they may produce stress hormones as a result. You can remove these by first cleaning the carrier with a biological solution, then rinsing and allowing it to air dry. This will allow you to start the training process on the right foot. This procedure must be done following a visit to the veterinarian to ensure that any foreign scents are eliminated. The first step is to identify your target audience.
- Step two: Use a pheromone spray, like as Feliway, to attract attention.
- Step four: Place some treats in the carrier every day until your cat is comfortable entering and exiting the carrier on their own.
- Keep the door to the house open at all times.
- Increase this time by a few minutes each day until your cat can be in the carrier with the door closed for a short period of time.
- Take your time and keep an eye out for any symptoms of tension in your cat’s behavior.
- Make sure the door is open at all times and can’t accidentally close on them until they’re comfortable being in the carrier without you prompting them in.
If you know a trip to the vet is coming up, start this training at least a few days beforehand so that your cat has a chance to get used to the carrier. The more time you give them to get used to the carrier, the better!
How to put your cat in a carrier
Put your cat in the carrier with its head first or its bottom first, depending on how you want it to be transported. First and foremost, make certain that the carrier is lined with a comfortable non-slip blanket or piece of vet bed – this is critical since your cat will want to feel solid and safe while traveling.
If you’re going to use the head-first approach, make sure your carrier is ready to go and that the door is open.
- One hand should be placed on their chest, behind their front legs, and the other hand should be placed on their bottom. Placing their head into the carrier with one hand on their bottom gently moving them forward into the carrier is a slow but confident process. Close the door behind them and walk away.
If you have a loving cat who likes to put the stops on when it comes to entering into the carrier, the bottom-first strategy is ideal for you!
- With the door open, position your carrier at a low angle facing upwards, two to three inches above the ground, and with the door open. You may rest this on something sturdy, such as a huge book. Then, when you’ve scooped up your cat, squat down to the ground and, holding onto their bum with one hand and hanging onto their chest behind their front legs with another, drop them into the carrier, bottom first. Do not forget to close the door after they have passed through.
Be certain to fasten the carrier door before picking up your cat in it, and throw a blanket or a towel over the carrier to ensure that your cat feels comfortable while traveling.
Patrick’s fear of cat carriers risked his life
Cat Patrick was so terrified of being confined in a carrier that he suffered life-threatening convulsions as a result. It even came close to destroying his prospects of getting rehomed. But, thanks to rigorous desensitization therapy at our Suffolk rehoming center, he was able to overcome his concerns and is now content and healthy. Prevention of incidents like Patrick’s can be achieved by early training that gets cats used to being in their carrier. Take a look at Patrick’s tale.
How to Get an Unwilling Cat Into a Carrier (4 Proven Methods)
Petkeen is entirely sponsored by its readers. If you make a purchase after clicking on one of our affiliate links, we may receive a commission. Read on to find out more Nicole Cosgrove is a model and actress. Cats are the most popular pet in North America, despite the fact that they visit their veterinarians significantly less frequently than the average dog. Because cats do not tend to venture outside very often (unless they are outdoor cats), it might be difficult to train them to become accustomed to being placed in their carrier.
When someone does not want to do something, persuading them to do it is almost impossible.
Getting an aggressive cat into a carrier is a skill that can be learned.
Learn how to soothe your cat and get them into their carrier with less rage and fewer scratches by watching the video below.
Method 1: Acclimation
Image courtesy of Pixabay user Karsten Paulick. For those of you who don’t have the luxury of time to train your cat to accept the carrier, read Step 2 for instructions on how to get your cat into their carrier, whether they want to or not. Keep in mind, though, that doing anything like this to your cat might cause them to experience an exponential amount of stress, which can be harmful if they are already unwell. Prior to their next checkup, it is usually preferable to take the time and care necessary to try to acclimatize them to their carrier.
Cats, for the most part, are very clever creatures.
As an alternative, attempt leaving it out for a period of time without touching it or doing anything nasty with it.
If you know that your cat will be required to travel in their cat carrier, such as for a veterinarian visit or a trip, you can prepare them by following the instructions outlined below. Acclimation
- Preparation should begin at least two weeks before the trip to ensure that the carrier is clean and free of any odors that your cat could find disagreeable. Chemical odors from an insufficient rinse job, or musty odors from being stored for an extended period of time, are examples of what you can encounter. Place the carrier in an area where your cat is likely to frequent so that it is easily visible to him or her. Make sure the carrier’s door is left open so that they may investigate it if they become intrigued. Decorate the carrier with an attractive blanket or bed that smells like your cat and depicts items that they enjoy having with them and that they feel comfortable having with them
- As the day approaches, place your cat’s favorite goodies in the carrier so that they will be enticed to enter anytime they are passing by. Place the carrier near their food and water bowls to help them develop more accustomed to having it around. Once they appear to be comfortable with it, place the bowls inside the carrier and close the container. Feed them in the carrier for a few of days at a time.
You may train your cat to link the carrier with happy experiences if you follow this procedure without ever having to push them into it. As a result, when the time comes, you shouldn’t have to exert much effort to persuade the cat inside the house.
Method 2: Getting your cat into their carrier
There is a possibility that you may not be able to persuade your cat even after a couple of weeks of gradual acclimatization. If this is the case, and you still require them to accompany you on a trip or to their veterinarian’s appointment, you will require an entirely other solution.
The Purrito Technique
Image courtesy of Artem Chekharin via Shutterstock. For aggressive cats who don’t enjoy being in their carriers, the Purrito Technique is highly suggested. This approach helps you to protect yourself from your cat’s claws while also preventing them from being overly excited and injuring themselves when you are attempting to place them in their carrier or carrier bag. Purrito Technique is a method of making a sandwich out of a purrito.
- It is possible to use the Purrito technique to wrap your cat until you can get them into the carrier. Start by placing the carrier in an area where they will not be able to see it, especially if they have come to associate it with a negative trigger. While kids are sleeping, you may do this, or you can place it in a separate area of the home. Make sure the carrier is positioned such that the door is open and towards the ceiling. Put it in a place where it won’t move, such as a corner of a room with the top of the table pushed up against a wall or the back of a toilet. When putting the carrier in a room, choose a location where there aren’t many pieces of furniture for your cat to hide beneath. If your cat like a lightweight bath towel or a blanket, use one of them. Make certain that it is large enough to wrap around your cat and hold all of their legs and paws while still being thin enough to pass through the front of the carrier door when they are all folded up and crated. Bring your cat inside the room and place the carrier on his or her back. Close the door as soon as possible so they can’t get away from you
- Take a towel and wrap it over your cat’s body, leaving only their head visible. Do this gently and confidently. You must make sure that the wrap is tight enough over the top to prevent them from escaping. Just make sure it doesn’t interfere with their breathing
- Place your purrito tail-side down in the carrier and lower them into it so they don’t see you’re putting them inside. As soon as they reach the bottom, close the carrier door as fast as possible. The towel is already unwrapped, so you won’t have to bother about it. They will unwrap themselves in a short period of time. After the carrier has been unwrapped, reward them with sweets that are passed through the door so that they will perhaps learn to connect the carrier with nice things.
It is recommended that you repeat the acclimatization process each time you need them to get into the carrier even if it does not work the first time. This strategy is most effective when you need to transport a hostile cat fast and don’t have the luxury of time to train them to accept the carrier. Doing this too frequently, on the other hand, might have the opposite effect and cause them to become even more resentful of you.
Keeping your cat calm
Your plan for keeping your cat quiet while they are in the carrier must be implemented as soon as the cat is placed inside of the carrier. You don’t want them to wind up injuring themselves as a result of their excessive anxiety. The following are some helpful hints for keeping your cat quiet on the way to the veterinarian: How to keep your cat calm and collected
- In order to attract more cats, spritz a synthetic cat pheromone on the towel you will be using or the carrier itself. As long as your cat and the carrier are in the same room, keep an eye on them. Leaving them stranded and alone might cause them to panic, even if it is only for a few brief seconds. Carry your cat in the carrier for practice vehicle trips without taking them to the vet so that they become accustomed to it. Make sure to give them goodies both while they are in the carrier and after they get out.
If your cat has a highly unpleasant memory of being in a carrier, they may require more drastic measures to keep them quiet and collected. You may wish to discuss with your veterinarian the possibility of administering a sedative to alleviate their fear and make exams simpler. RelatedReads:
- Reviews of the Top 10 Best Cat Carriers for Nervous Cats in 2021. Reviews of the Top Picks
- The 10 Best Cat Carriers for 2021. In our opinion, the top ten best cat backpacks for 2021 are as follows: The Best of the Best
Credit for the featured image goes to alenka2194 through Shutterstock. Nicole is the fortunate owner of two cats: Baby, a Burmese cat, and Rosa, a New Zealand Huntaway dog. Nicole, a Canadian expat, now lives in New Zealand with her Kiwi spouse on a lush forest property surrounded by nature. In addition to having a great affection for all animals of all shapes and sizes (and a special fondness for healthy interspecies friendships), she wishes to share her animal expertise, as well as the information of other experts, with pet lovers all around the world.
Nicole is the fortunate owner of two cats: Baby, a Burmese cat, and Rosa, a New Zealand Huntaway dog. Nicole, a Canadian expat, now lives in New Zealand with her Kiwi spouse on a lush forest property surrounded by nature.
In addition to having a great affection for all animals of all shapes and sizes (and a special fondness for healthy interspecies friendships), she wishes to share her animal expertise, as well as the information of other experts, with pet lovers all around the world.
How To Get Your Cat Into a Pet Carrier
Everyone believes that cats despise carriers. However, this is not true; we have instilled a dislike for carriers in them. Imagine growing up in a household where your family owned two station wagons: a red one and a green one. That was my family’s experience growing up. The red one was almost entirely utilized, with the exception of trips to the dentist, which were handled by the green one instead. After all of this time, is it any wonder that you could have a “irrational” phobia of green station wagons now, twenty or more years later?
- Cats are particularly sensitive to the force of negative association, which explains why they tend to dislike carriers: whenever they go into them, they’re being transported somewhere they don’t want to go.
- Base camp, as previously established, is a specified region of your house that serves as the focal point of a cat’s territorial domain.
- Step 2 – Organize in a social setting Place the carrier in a social place where your cat is already at ease, such as the living room.
- Providing them with a Jackpot Treat is the third step.
- You should even wait until they’re in the carrier before handing out their jackpot rewards.
- Step 4 – Replace the lid with a new one.
- And don’t forget to keep up your winnings-related habit.
- Our next step is to reinstall the carrier door, which will be one of our final stages.
- As a result, I would recommend tape the door open first to prevent it from swinging back and forth.
Eventually, possibly after you’ve given them their jackpot rewards, you might want to try closing the door for a few minutes and then opening it back up. The concept that it isn’t a huge concern if the door closes will become more ingrained in their minds.
A Final Step: The Pick Up/Put Down
Pick up the carrier and set it back down before opening the door again once you have reached the stage where you can truly have your cat in the carrier with its door closed. Once you have reached this point, repeat the process. The goal is to create situations that are similar to those that your cat will encounter when it comes time to visit the veterinarian. What we’re aiming for is a situation in which every time the cat is placed in the carrier, it does not result in the dreaded “green station wagon” syndrome.
However, only one time out of every hundred will they be required to attend a real veterinarian.
Don’t be shocked if your cat decides to retreat to their new safe haven of the cat carrier during an emergency circumstance (such as an earthquake, for example).
(Although, in multi-cat households, you should make sure that you are dealing with a carrier to cat ratio of one to one.) For your cat’s sake, I want the carrier to be a secure and attractive location for them so that you can take them to the doctor without causing any unnecessary drama, travel with them safely, and provide them a portable base camp: a safe place to go anytime they are anxious.
Check out my latest book, Total Cat Mojo, for the whole scoop on all things carriers, as well as everything else you need to know about your feline companion.
How to Get Your Cat in a Carrier—Without Getting Clawed
Not every cat despises carriers, but a large number of cats do. And for such cats, terror outweighs all other emotions, as well as any directives or pleas you may provide. This behavior is frequently triggered by the fact that they are not accustomed to being in a carrier, and they become trapped in a loop of negative reinforcement as a result. Consider what occurred the last time you took the cat carrier out of its hiding place in the closet. The most likely scenario is that your scared kitty bolted from the room and hid beneath the bed until you persuaded or brought her out of hiding.
Why do cats hate cat carriers?
Cat carriers are mostly used for transporting cats to the veterinarian, which is something that does not occur very frequently. The American Veterinary Medical Association reports that less than half of all cats in the United States receive yearly veterinary treatment, compared to roughly 80 percent of dogs. Natalie Marks, a Chicago-based veterinarian and a representative for Royal Canin, adds You can see why you are having difficulty putting your cat in a carrier when you consider the circumstances.
“And the frequency of this visual recall increases with each episode.” You won’t want to miss out on these 17 things that your cat would want to tell you.
Kitten parents: Develop good habits early
So, what happened to the carrier you purchased in order to get your new cat to your home? If it’s in the closet, get it out of there. Make sure it is always visible and easily accessible by placing it in a visible location. In order to maximize its effectiveness, it should be placed in the room where you spend the most time. In addition, Dr. Marks recommends that the litter box be visible at all times, with a fleece or soft blanket in the bottom and desired treats and/or food in the top, as well as spraying with soothing chemicals such as Feliway pheromoneest to settle your kitty.
The carrier, which should be introduced when your cat is a kitten, provides a secure haven for your cat to hang out and a positive connection, rather than serving as a cause of worry and anxiety.
Starting from scratch
We’ll excuse the pun, but anybody who has attempted to transport a cat who is resistant to being carried will understand what we’re talking about. Hissing, clawing, and writhing around is a distressing experience for both you and your partner. The question is, how can you put your cat in his carrier when it’s been years since he’s been in one? If you have an adult cat, you may use the same procedure that Dr. Marks recommends for kittens. It may take some time, so don’t wait until the day before you take your cat to the doctor to attempt it.
Marks recommends consulting with your veterinarian about further natural or pharmaceutical strategies to assist calm your cat around this stressful trigger.
Make a few trial runs
Once your cat has become accustomed to the box, consider closing the door to imitate a true trip experience for him or her. When it is OK to leave the carrier door closed for a brief length of time while at home, trial runs are more beneficial. According to Dr. Marks, “I like for cat owners to undertake ‘trial runs,’ in which they recreate the complete veterinary visit experience, including automobile journey,” adds the veterinarian. Using this method, we can identify where and/or when their cat feels worried, and we may try to address the problem through behavioral modification and/or anti-anxiety supplements or pharmaceuticals.
Visit the vet, for real
If your cat vomits due to motion sickness or because he’s a bundle of nerves, schedule the appointment before his regular feeding time to avoid letting him miss out on his meal. “Ideally, for normal appointments, we like patients to be fasting and/or hungry, which benefits us in a number of ways,” explains Dr. Marks. “We prefer patients to be fasting and/or hungry for routine appointments, which benefits us in a number of ways.” The patient must be fasting if blood testing is being performed to ensure accuracy.
(An animal’s fear, worry, and tension can be eliminated via the use of the Fear Free approach, which many veterinary clinics employ.) Keep reading to learn 50 truths that your veterinarian will never tell you.
What if my cat is sick?
A sick cat in a carrier with a cat that isn’t used to it isn’t the best combo, but there is still hope. As Dr. Marks points out, “Pheromone usage is always a fantastic option for both carriers and cars.” Alternatively, ask your veterinarian whether there is a safe anti-anxiety medicine that you may administer to your cat before to the appointment. If you find yourself in this situation, Dr. Marks suggests that you use a top-loading carrier and line the bottom with a thick towel in order to securely transport the ill cat.
Carriers for nervous cats
Hard-sided carriers, according to Dr. Marks, are more durable, easier to clean, and dry more rapidly after being washed. “The majority of high-quality hard carriers will feature a typical entry on the side, followed by a loading compartment with ventilation at the top,” she continues. “When compared to soft carriers, rigid carriers are more difficult for frightened cats to escape from.”
Carriers for chill cats
In Dr. Marks’ opinion, “soft carriers are excellent for cats who are already well acclimated to the carrier or have a naturally quiet attitude.” “These carriers are often lightweight, easy to transport, and quite pleasant for cats,” according to the manufacturer. The bendable top of this airline-approved carrier allows you to put it under the seat in front of you if you plan to travel by plane on a regular basis. However, a word of caution: even if you know how to transport your cat in a carrier, you may have a greater worry when it comes to selecting the most appropriate carrier.
Marks, cats who are frightened or disturbed might occasionally escape from soft carriers.
The cat’s meow of carriers
The most appropriate carrier is the one that is appropriate for your cat’s size, temperament, and personal preferences. First and foremost, make certain that you choose one that is the appropriate size. In general, according to Dr. Marks, “you should look for a carrier that is 1.5 times the length of your cat.” It is necessary for cats to be able to stand up, turn around, and feel the back of their neck on the side of their carrier.” After that, insert a fleece blanket into the carrier. Feathers are one of the textures that cats enjoy, and fleece is one of them.
Don’t forget about the pheromones, either.
In general, comfort is essential—and this does not only refer to bodily comfort.
This multi-functional cat carrier serves as a carrier, a bed, and a car seat for Dr. Marks’ feline companions. If you own a cat, you should be aware of the following 13 things you do that your cat despises.
How to Get a Cat Into a Pet Carrier: 12 Steps (with Pictures)
You need to transport your cat in a pet carrier, but your cat isn’t very interested in participating with your plans at all. It is not necessary to feel as if you are fighting for your life every time you need to transport your cat to a different location. There are several easy things you can do to help the entire process go much more smoothly, and we’ll show you how.
- 1Put an additional towel or newspaper inside the carrier to protect it from damage. Your cat’s stress level from being in a carrier may lead him to urinate. An additional towel or piece of newspaper will assist in soaking up the urine so that your cat does not have to feel the’soil spot’ in the carrier while traveling with you. If you are using a towel that your cat does not normally sleep in, spraying it with cat pheromones may be beneficial. 2 Place the carrier at the desired location. Hard-sided carriers with a front or top loading design are perfect for learning how to properly place your cat in a carrier. For front-loading carriers, position them on their ends so that the entrance faces upwards. You will be able to place your cat in the carrier safely and with a reasonable degree of ease in this manner.
- Place the carrier against the wall to prevent it from falling back as you are attempting to place your cat inside of it
- This will prevent the carrier from falling back.
- 3 Get your cat out of the house. The manner in which you pick up your cat is critical to ensuring that she is safely placed in the carrier. Wrap one arm over her rump and place the other arm under her chest to secure the position. In order to support your cat’s rear end with one arm, use your hand to support her back legs.
- It is best if her hind end is towards your chest and the rest of her body is facing away from you
- In order to pick up your cat without her resisting and scratching, use a large towel to wrap her up.
- 4 Carefully lower your kitty into her transport container. Put your cat’s hind end in the carrier first, and do it slowly. The fact that she is being lowered in this manner prevents her from feeling as though she is being pushed into the carrier with no way out.
- As soon as your cat begins to struggle, take her outside and allow her time to settle down before attempting to soothe her again.
- 5Remove the carrier from the vehicle and reposition the vehicle. As soon as your cat is safely contained in the carrier, close the clasp and place the carrier so that its bottom rests on the floor. Providing your cat behaved properly when she was placed in the carrier (for example without biting, scratching, or extreme struggle), reward her with goodies. 6 Cover the carrier with a towel or a pillowcase to keep the contents safe. A towel or pillowcase draped over the carrier helps your cat feel more cozy and protected, reinforcing the concept that the carrier is a haven of warmth and protection for him. When traveling by vehicle, covering the carrier can help to obscure the fact that the car is moving but your cat is not
- When traveling by plane, covering the carrier can help to obscure the fact that the plane is moving but your cat is not
- It is possible for your cat’s sense of balance to be disturbed while traveling in a car. On a hot day, do not cover the carrier with your hands.
- 1 Begin the acclimatization process as soon as possible. The sooner in your cat’s life that she learns familiar with her carrier, the better off you will be. Due to the fact that kittens tend to be more flexible than older or senior cats, it is ideal to begin the acclimatization process while your cat is still a kitten. If you have an older cat, the acclimatization process will most likely take a little longer for him to adjust.
- Follow the instructions above as slowly and quietly as possible if you must travel before the cat has been adjusted to the environment. Making the carrier experience as stress-free as possible will aid in effective acclimatization later on. If you intend to transport your cat on a lengthy journey, it is preferable to begin acclimatizing the cat many weeks or even several months in advance.
- 2 Keep the carrier out of the way at all times. It is often assumed that the existence of a pet carrier indicates that something awful is going to happen, such as a trip to the veterinarian’s office. If you only bring the carrier out when you need to transport your cat someplace, she will most likely come to associate it with danger. As a result, it is advised that the carrier be left out on the floor at all times.
- Keep the carrier door open at all times. In this way, your cat will be able to enter and depart the carrier at her leisure without being afraid that you would close the door on her.
- 3Place the pet carrier in a convenient position for your pet. It is possible that your cat will not want to enter the carrier even if she has unfettered access if it is in an area that she does not frequent. Place the carrier in a location that she like, such as near a window that receives a lot of natural light
- 4 Make the inside of your cat’s carrier appealing to him or her. Despite the fact that your cat isn’t delighted about being in the carrier, it should feel like a welcoming and secure environment to her. One method of enticing your cat into the carrier is to have the container scent like something she is acquainted with. Consider placing her favorite towel or blanket in the carrier, for example.
- Pet owners should spray the carrier with cat pheromones (available at their local pet store). Fill your cat’s carrier with kibbles, biscuits, or catnip to keep him entertained. When the supply is depleted, replenish it. If she has any favorite toys, make sure to include them in the carrier as well.
- 5 Place your cat’s food in her carrier. If your cat appears to be content spending time in her carrier, you might want to try feeding her while she is in there. She may, at first, be apprehensive about eating her meals while still strapped to her carrier. Instead, she may find it more comfortable to take her meals in close proximity to the carrier.
- Make sure her feeding bowl is at least a couple of feet away from the carrier. When you feed her, gradually move the bowl closer to the carrier with each feeding. If she refuses to take the food after you move the bowl closer, move it back and repeat the process. Ideally, your cat will gradually become more accustomed to eating from her dish while it is in the carrier. If she continues to do so, consider feeding her in her carrier on a daily basis. If your cat perceives that you are monitoring her, she may refuse to eat in the carrier because she believes you will lock the door behind her. Keep a safe distance between you and her so that she may eat without being questioned
- 6 Practice shutting the carrier door as many times as possible. Your cat may see being trapped inside the carrier as a trap, and she will need to learn accustomed to you closing the carrier’s door once she has been placed inside. When she enters the carrier, close the door for a brief period of time. Give her a reward as soon as you can, then unlock the door and allow her outside
- When your cat is eating, do not practice closing the door on yourself. To begin, close the door for only a few seconds at a time. When you continue this practice, gradually increase the length of time you leave the carrier door closed before feeding her a treat and allowing her to come back out of the carrier. You should only give her a reward if she does not become unhappy or attempt to escape when you close the door. You should reduce the amount of time you spend with your door closed if she does either of those things.
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- In order to own a cat, you’ll need the following items. Veterinarian Dr. Nelson practices Companion and Large Animal Medicine in Minnesota, where she has over 18 years of experience working as a veterinarian in a rural clinic. She received her doctorate from the University of Minnesota. She graduated with honors from the University of Minnesota in 1998 with a Doctor of Veterinary Medicine degree. An Answer from a Veterinarian Supplies like as a smaller box and litter, as well as adequate food and a few toys, would be considered essential
- What is the best way to catch a cat? Veterinarian Dr. Nelson practices Companion and Large Animal Medicine in Minnesota, where she has over 18 years of experience working as a veterinarian in a rural clinic. She received her doctorate from the University of Minnesota. She graduated with honors from the University of Minnesota in 1998 with a Doctor of Veterinary Medicine degree. An Answer from a Veterinarian It is sufficient to call the cat to you and take it up in order to tame it. Use of live traps is preferable when dealing with stray or feral cats
- Question Where does a cat’s scruff come from? Veterinarian Dr. Nelson practices Companion and Large Animal Medicine in Minnesota, where she has over 18 years of experience working as a veterinarian in a rural clinic. She received her doctorate from the University of Minnesota. She graduated with honors from the University of Minnesota in 1998 with a Doctor of Veterinary Medicine degree. An Answer from a Veterinarian The scruff of a cat is that portion of the neck that is directly behind the head where there is a lot of loose skin
- Is it possible to transport two cats in a carrier? Veterinarian Dr. Nelson practices Companion and Large Animal Medicine in Minnesota, where she has over 18 years of experience working as a veterinarian in a rural clinic. She received her doctorate from the University of Minnesota. She graduated with honors from the University of Minnesota in 1998 with a Doctor of Veterinary Medicine degree. An Answer from a Veterinarian Two cats can be safely transported in a carrier provided they get along well and the carrier has enough space for them each to turn around and lay down comfortably
- Question What can I do to make my cat more comfortable when traveling in her carrier? The owner and founder of Call Ms Behaving, a behavior therapy service for dogs and cats in San Diego, California, Francine Miller is an Applied Animal Behavior Counselor and the company’s founder. Francine has over 16 years of expertise in the treatment of behavioral disorders such as aggressiveness, separation anxiety, phobias, fear responses, destructiveness, urine marking, and obsessive behaviors. She is a member of the American Association for Behavior Analysis. She employs a behavioral management and modification strategy that is based only on positive reinforcement. She graduated from the American College of Applied Science with a Diploma in Canine Behavior Counseling in hand (ACAS). At the American College of Applied Science, Francine has finished all of the curriculum required for her MS in Applied Animal Behavior Science and Family Counseling for Companion Animals degree (ACAS). She is a certified Associate of the International Association of Animal Behavior Consultants (IAABC) and a member of the Pet Professional Guild, both of which are professional organizations. Expert in Animal Behavior Counseling Certification Answer I recommend that you leave the carrier out so that your cat get accustomed to seeing it as a regular item. In addition, putting your cat’s food dish inside the carrier might assist her in developing a favorable relationship with the carrier. Is it okay to transport 3-day-old kittens in a carrier with their mother? Yes, that should be satisfactory. Just be careful when you’re transporting them. Make sure to put the kittens in first, because the mother will go inside hunting for them
- I’ve done everything you recommended to entice my cat into the box to no avail. She is adamant about not going near it. I’m sorry, but I’m unable to take her up. She bites and becomes hostile, and then she runs away and hides. Has your cat been in the carrier before? If so, she has undoubtedly experienced a painful experience in there and has identified it as a threat. It seems pricey, but getting a new, nicer looking carrier may be an excellent solution. If nothing works, and you’re trying to get your cat to the vet, call around and find one who makes house calls. Many of them do for this precise reason
- Question How can I get a feral cat to enter a carrier if it is outside? The procedures are the same whether the cat is an indoor or an outdoor cat
- Question and Answer I have a kitten that is 49 days old and it will go inside the carrier, but its mother would not. What is the reason behind this? Tim TamsAnswer from the Community The kitten is blissfully unaware that its mother disapproves of it, and it also has more space in there. Additionally, the mother is more intellectual, and as a result, she is more skeptical
- Question My cat is adamant about not going into her carrier or box. What should I do in this situation? Place snacks around the crate or carrier to make the environment more cozy, and then add a blanket and toy to make it more inviting. After you’ve waited for the cat to approach the area, tell her she’s doing a wonderful job when she accepts the goodies. Continue to move the goodies closer and closer to the carrier, praising her when she comes near enough to reach them. Eventually, you will be able to place goodies in the carrier or crate and she will come in
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- Cats are creatures of habit, and this is no exception. If your cat is not given enough time to become acclimated to the carrier, she may perceive it as an undesirable interruption to her daily routine. Following a veterinarian appointment, the interior of the carrier will be scented with the smells of the veterinary facility, which your cat will not enjoy. Upon reaching your destination, thoroughly scrub and rinse the carrier with hot water. Carriers with soft sides that open from the top or side are more convenient to transport. Their sides, on the other hand, are foldable, which may not be ideal if you intend to transport your cat for extended periods of time in the car. Your cat should be able to spin around in your pet carrier if it is of appropriate size. Aside from that, it should be simple to deconstruct, which is especially crucial if your cat is sick, wounded, or unable to go out on her own. If you are unclear about which carrier is best for your cat, you should consult with your veterinarian. Consider giving your cat a verbal order to enter her carrier to make her more comfortable. Throw a goodie into the carrier and call out ‘in’ as she goes through the door. Give her a lot of positive feedback as soon as she enters into the room. Keep repeating this process until she is able to enter her carrier on her own following your vocal direction, but before you give her a reward
- It is possible that attempting to put your cat into her carrier at the last minute can heighten her agitation, resulting in her biting or scratching you. To ensure that she is safely transported, provide plenty of time before your preferred departure time. Avoid using a homemade carrier, such as a laundry basket or a pillowcase, to transport your cat. Makeshift carriers might cause injury or damage to your cat
- Use caution when using them. Do not attempt to remove your cat from her container by dragging her or shaking her out
- Instead, use gentle pressure.
About this article
Summary of the ArticleX The procedure of putting your cat into a pet carrier may appear to be a difficult one, but there are some useful methods to make the process go more smoothly. Allow your cat to become used to the carrier by placing it in his or her favorite area and filling it with goodies or his or her favorite toys for a few hours or days. If your cat decides to enter the carrier on its own, close the door, give it a reward, and then allow it out to relieve itself again. As soon as it’s time to transfer your cat, flip the carrier so that it’s facing up and drop your automobile into it from behind.
Unless it’s a really hot day, drape a towel over the carrier to make it feel more comfortable and secure.
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We understand how stressful it may be to take your cat to the veterinarian, having been cat owners ourselves. In addition to the worry of leaving home, putting your cat into their carrier can be a challenge, but it doesn’t have to be if you use the appropriate strategies. “Should I get a specific type of carrier?”
- It is preferable if your carrier has firm sides, is open from both the front and the top, and comes apart in the center. (See this page for an excellent illustration.) This makes it easier for the doctor and/or technician to remove the top of the cat’s cage rather than having to take your animal out from the front. It also allows frightened cats to remain in the bottom part of their carrier for examinations
- Your carrier should be able to be secured to the seat belt of your automobile for transportation. Additionally, this not only keeps your cat secure, but it also helps to lessen the bumpiness of the journey.
“My cat absolutely despises their carrier. “Might you tell me how I can assist them get more at ease with it?” Cats are creatures of habit, and this is no exception. They require time to become used to new experiences such as being in a carrier, travelling in a car, or seeing the veterinarian. When engaging with your cat, remember to maintain your composure and patience with him or her. Cats have an instinctive awareness of our emotions, and if they are aware that you are angry, a stressful scenario can only deteriorate more.
- Leave the carrier in a permanent location in your home where your cat enjoys spending a significant amount of time
- And Leave the carrier door open or remove the door and arrange bedding inside it for them to sleep in. It’s a good idea to put food, snacks, catnip, or toys inside it to encourage them to spend more time there.
- When it’s time to leave home, place your cat in a carrier with a used blanket or towel that has the aromas of home on it
- Next, drape a towel over the top of the carrier to keep the cat warm. In addition to blocking off visual stimulus, this has a relaxing impact on cats as well. Finally, sprayFeliwayinto their carrier 30 minutes before you leave to prevent odors. It is a synthetic version of a naturally occurring stress-relieving pheromone that aids in the reduction of tension in cats. It’s possible that you’ve noticed that we utilize Feliway diffusers in each exam room if you’ve brought your cat to Cat Care Professionals.
In the event that it is time to go and my cat is still refusing to get into their carrier, what should I do? If your cat hasn’t gotten used to their carrier by the time they need to travel to the doctor, there are still choices available to them!
- Try putting the carrier in a tiny room where your cat won’t be able to conceal himself. Attempt to get them into their carrier by closing the door to the room and encouraging them to do so. When it comes to treats, for example, if they are motivated by them, try placing some in the carrier. You may also hold your cat and lower them into their carrier if they are still refusing to get into it and you have a carrier that opens from the top. Alternatively, you may remove the top half of the carrier, place your cat in the bottom half, and then reattach the top half.
“I have more than one cat,” says the author.
After they get home from the vet, what can I do to keep them from being violent toward one another?” After it comes to their sense of smell, cats are quite sensitive, and it is not uncommon for them to be hostile against one another when they return home from the clinic.
- Bring your cat to the veterinarian with a used blanket or towel that has the odors of home on it, as well as Feliway spray
- Bring all of your cats to the veterinarian at the same time. If that isn’t a possibility, consider keeping your cat in their carrier for a few minutes once you arrive home to see how your other cats respond to him/her once he/she has been introduced. Let them out of their carrier if they don’t react aggressively to being released. If there is animosity between them, place your cat and the carrier in a different room with food, drink, and litter for 24 hours so that they may reacquaint themselves with the odors of home
- If there is no aggression between them, do not separate them.
In the event that you have any queries, please do not hesitate to call us at our veterinary clinic in Lake Oswego, Oregon. You may reach us at [email protected].
Acclimating Your Cat To A Carrier
Cats and carriers are frequently at odds with one another. The fact that a cat is in a carrier often indicates that something unpleasant is about to happen, such as a trip to the veterinarian. Your cat, on the other hand, can quickly become adapted to his carrier if you provide him with a few nice contacts at home. Begin by leaving the carrier open and exposed to the elements. Allow your cat to explore the carrier on his or her own timetable and schedule. Adding a towel or a T-shirt with your smell, as well as a few sweet snacks, to the interior of the carrier can make it more appealing to your cat.
- Eventually, your cat’s natural curiosity will urge him to investigate the carrier.
- Instead of securing your cat inside the carrier, position the bowl at the back of the carrier so that he must enter the container entirely.
- Keep your cat in the carrier for no more than 15 minutes at a time; any longer will be harmful to him.
- While your cat is in the carrier, do not separate him from the rest of the household.
- If you would like to speak with a Behavior Specialist from the Anti-Cruelty Society about this behavior subject, please contact 312-645-8253 or email [email protected]
Teach Your Cat To Go Into A Carrier—Without A Struggle
Time allotted for reading: 4 minutes The thought of taking their cat to the vet, even if the cat isn’t sick, is arguably the most terrifying thing a cat owner can imagine. Most dogs will easily get into the car, but for cats, the trip begins with a battle to get into a carrier that is distressing for both of you. Fortunately, there are some simple solutions to this problem. It is not necessary to proceed in this manner. According to a new research published in the journal Applied Animal Behavior, teaching a cat to enter a carrier freely does more than simply eliminating the battle.
You probably don’t need a research to convince you that having a cat that likes the carrier would make life simpler; the difficult part is believing that it is feasible to have a cat who likes the carrier.
Monique Feyrecilde, a Fear Free Certified Professional Level 2 vet tech and coauthor of the book Cooperative Veterinary Care, believes that this is absolutely true. Cats are trainable, and it doesn’t take nearly as much time as you might expect to get them to cooperate.
First and first, you must grasp a few fundamental concepts. One is that training sessions should be kept to a minimum–no more than a minute or two. It’s possible to have five or six treats’ worth of training in a single session before having to stop because they’re full, according to her. The fact that cats satiate faster than dogs contributes to the incorrect idea that cats cannot be trained to work for food, according to the author. Second, cats are naturally wary of unfamiliar objects, so the carrier should be known to them before you begin transporting them.
Finding a place where you can leave the carrier all of the time rather than having to dig it out of a closet when it’s time to train will increase the likelihood that you’ll actually do it, and the likelihood that the cat will be cautious about the odd new object will decrease.
Some cats like the Kong filling pastes in liver or salmon taste, according to Feyrecilde, and all of these soft treats may be served with a spoon or the end of a chopstick, which some cats may prefer: When you touch your cat’s food, he or she may react negatively, and the same may be true if the food is on your finger.
Step By Step
Deconstruct the carrier-entering process into a series of extremely minor processes. In the case of a hard carrier that can be dismantled, start with simply the bottom half of the carrier. To begin, you must persuade the cat to enter the bottom half of the carrier on its own own and remain there for increasing durations of time. According on your cat’s reaction, the specifics of this will be different as well. Even if you place goodies at the bottom of the container, some will walk directly in; others will need to be persuaded in step by step.
As soon as your cat is comfortable with this, reward him or her for placing one foot in, then both front feet in, then all four feet in, and finally for staying while being treated for increasing lengths of time (see chart).
Once again, there is a reward for approaching, entering, and remaining.
– While the cat is still in the container, give him a treat while moving the door.
Continue to treat while keeping the door closed for increasing lengths of time.– Once the cat is happy being in its carrier with the door closed, raise the carrier and set it down on the floor, then treat again.
As soon as the cat becomes acclimated to being carried in the carrier, it’s a good idea to start taking her on short vehicle excursions that don’t include a trip to the vet’s office.
Feyrecilde claims it’s not an issue.
You may still follow the same technique for rewarding approach and entry if the carrier does not break apart; if the carrier has a top opening or another door on the other end, this will allow you to continue to offer treats while your cat is in it.
According to her, if you’re training your cat to enter from the top, you’ll want to make sure the lid is securely open so that they don’t jiggle it and accidentally close the lid on themselves.
Various cats may find different steps more challenging than others, so pay attention to their body language and behaviors and don’t hurry through them.
‘If you’re teaching a cat a new concept, it may take as little time as a few days,’ according to her estimates.
But keep in mind that this is over several months at a rate of only a few minutes each day.
She points out that the outcome will make life simpler and safer in general, not just while going to the veterinarian.
But it’s not all about disasters and trips to the veterinarian.
“Have fun educating your cat; they are intelligent and can learn a lot!” she advises.
Dr. Kenneth Martin, a board-certified veterinary behaviorist, and/or Debbie Martin, a veterinary technician expert in behavior, have both read and revised this article for accuracy and comprehensiveness. Originally published on November 26, 2018